Lobsters: the Curious History of a Delicacy

Lobsters, now considered a luxurious delicacy and enjoyed by foodies around the world, were once considered the food of the poor and even despised by many. This dramatic change in perception over the centuries is a fascinating story of culinary evolution under the influence of social and economic change.

At the dawn of American colonial history, lobsters were abundant along the New England coast. The crustaceans were so plentiful that they washed ashore in piles, sometimes several meters deep. For colonists and Native Americans, lobsters were an easily accessible source of protein. However, their abundance led to their association with poverty and deprivation.

Lobsters were used primarily as fertilizer for fields and bait for fishing. They were a staple food for the lower classes, prisoners of penitentiaries, and servants.

Servants' contracts often stipulated that they would not be fed lobster more than a few times a week to avoid complaints about such poor quality food. The reputation of this crustacean was so bad that it was even called the "sea cockroach".

The change in lobster's reputation began in the mid-nineteenth century with the advent of the canning industry. Lobster meat was canned and shipped to the interior of the country where it was less familiar. Gradually, as people in other regions became familiar with this new seafood, its popularity began to grow.

The real turning point came with the development of the American railroad system. Railroads began to promote lobster as an exotic dish for passengers. People traveling on trains were served lobster as a specialty, elevating its status from an ordinary dish to something more desirable. This advertising led to an increased demand for lobster, especially among the middle and upper classes.

By the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century, lobsters found their way into the kitchens of elite restaurants in major cities. Chefs began to experiment with different ways of cooking and serving lobster, which further increased its appeal. The emergence of haute cuisine and gourmet restaurants cemented the lobster's status as a luxury item.

During this period, lobster prices began to rise, making it less accessible to the working class. The once despised crustacean successfully shed its image of poverty and became considered a delicacy synonymous with wealth and sophistication. The transformation was so complete that by the mid-20th century, lobster had become a staple dish in elite restaurants and a popular choice for special occasions.

Today, lobster is synonymous with haute cuisine and pleasure. It takes center stage in gourmet dishes around the world, from lobster bisque (a French dish, a cream soup whose main ingredient is crustacean shell) to lobster rolls, and is often associated with luxury and celebration. The crustacean's journey from sea to table and from poverty to luxury is a testament to how societal values and economic factors can dramatically change the perception of food.

However, in recent years, due to concerns about overfishing of lobster and environmental impact, sustainable seafood practices have become more widespread. This new understanding is shaping the future of lobster consumption, ensuring that this once unassuming crustacean remains a delicacy for future generations.

What was once considered a symbol of poverty has become a symbol of luxury and haute cuisine. While foodies continue to grapple with the complexities of food culture and sustainability, the lobster journey provides valuable insights into the ever-changing relationship between society and what it eats.