Today, perfumery is a high-tech art where each fragrance is created using modern chemical processes. However, in the past, when technology was less advanced, perfumers used methods that, although complex and time-consuming, produced stunning results.
One such method, enfleurage, is all but forgotten, but its uniqueness keeps people from abandoning it completely.
Anfleurage and its uniqueness
Anfleurage is one of the oldest methods of extracting fragrances from flowers. It was particularly popular in France in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries.
The essence of the method "enfleurage" was the use of animal fat, which was applied to glass plates, fresh flowers were laid on this layer, and for several days the fat absorbed their aroma.
Mostly pork and beef fat was used. The flowers were replaced with new ones until the fat was completely saturated with the odor. Subsequently, the resulting fat, which was called pomade, was dissolved in alcohol. Once dissolved, the pomade with alcohol was shaken for 24 hours to separate the fat from the essential oil.
Gauze stretched over frames and soaked in olive oil can also be used for enfleurage. The flower petals, as in the first case, are changed immediately after wilting. The resulting perfume product can be used in pure form.
There was also hot enfleurage (maceration), where flowers were cooked in hot fat. This made it possible to obtain fragrances from flowers that did not give up their essential oils in the cold method.
At first glance, enfleurage was an ideal method for creating fragrances from delicate flowers such as jasmine or violet. However, its main disadvantage was that it was labor intensive and expensive. The process required time, patience and a large number of flowers.
Advances in technology in the 19th century led to more efficient methods such as extraction with volatile solvents. These methods made it possible to obtain fragrances faster and cheaper, so by 1930 the enfleurage technique was abandoned by perfumers.
Despite its complexity, enfleurage had a number of advantages that make it indispensable in some cases. This method preserved the natural qualities of the flowers as much as possible, allowing the subtle nuances of fragrance that are often lost with other methods. The essential oils obtained in this way were characterized by a softness and depth that cannot be replicated using modern techniques.
A return to tradition
Today, as consumers increasingly seek naturalness and uniqueness, interest in vintage perfumery techniques is making a comeback. Anfleurage can be a great
marketing move for brands that want to stand out from mass-produced products.
Photo: vash-aromat.ru
Artisan perfumers who decide to revive this technique will be able to offer customers not just a fragrance, but a true exclusive, created with attention to detail and respect for tradition.
With the loss of ancient methods, people have lost not only the technical aspects but also the philosophy of fragrance creation. Perfumers of the past treated the process as an art form where every step was important. Modern methods, while more efficient, have robbed the process of its special charm and meditative nature.
A return to traditional techniques can open up new horizons for the art of perfumery. In a world where mass production standards prevail, the use of unique techniques such as enfleurage can be a sign of exclusivity and true craftsmanship. This will not only preserve ancient traditions, but will also give the world new fragrances that respect nature and history.
Although enfleurage and other ancient methods of perfumery are hardly used today, they remain an important part of the history of fragrance creation.
The revival of these techniques could be a step towards a more conscious and creative approach to perfume creation. There is a good chance that in the near future, buyers of fine perfumes will hear about enfleurage perfumes again and experience their unique sound.